
I have been meaning to respond to this post from Crooked Timber on food technology and modernity for a while, because I think there is one area of confusion. Chris is "revolted by the suggestion that one day we might synthesize all our food." He links this visceral reaction to a more general concern about the alienating effects of modernity and even what it means to be human.
This is an understandable feeling, but I think it differs from concerns about Transhumanists in an important way, one which is brought out quite clearly in Chris' quote from Orwell. (The character in Orwell bites into a disgusting fish sausage, which fills him with queasy rage against the plasticene modern world.) That is, our feelings about "artificial" food are inevitably colored by the fact that all artificial food developed so far tastes incredibly bad. We associate the possibility of synthesized food with the dubious foods we have already been offered, always with the smiling assurance that it tastes just as good as the real thing - and is so much more convenient! Just consider products such as margarine, canned peas, frozen corn, instant oatmeal, instant coffee, frozen pizza, powdered milk, canned biscuits, etc. etc. Not to put too fine a point on it, they all taste like shit. And in addition to the injury of the bad food, one is made to suffer the insults of marketers who deem you too stupid to know the difference. This is the quintessential experience of "artificial" foods so far.
But if I imagine that the synthesizing process is perfect, I find that most of my objections evaporate (I can't speak for Chris here.) What if I had in my home a Star Trek-style food replicator (ignoring for the moment the amount of energy needed to run the matter/energy conversion the other way)? Now, instead of flaccid, tasteless, huge strawberries, deceptively red on the outside, with mealy crystals forming around a hollow core, I can have tiny fraises de bois, still warm from the sun, each the equal of the best strawberry I ever ate as a child. Gone forever would be the depressing ratio of truly good peaches to bad ones. Every dinner I made would start with the absolute finest fresh ingredients: still-living oysters from perfect water; unpasteurized (but perfectly safe) milk just that instant taken from the foaming pail; asparagus so fine and tender they are a form of vegetable infanticide; a gallon of huckleberries that would have taken me two days to pick myself.
Anf for those who don't cook, the machine can be dialled to produce ready meals, scanned (in some mysterious way) from the products of the world's best chefs. No more lonely packets of ramen; instead you may have hand-made somen in delicate miso broth, with glistening pieces of salmon on top. Instead of Stouffer's french bread pizza, with its little extruded turds of ground beef, how about a small margherita from your favorite Neapolitan pizza place?
Now, do we really think the diners in these scenarios are being deprived of a deep connection to the world? Is it not rather the case, no matter what the raw materials of this process are, that they are more in touch with real food than the average margarine-eater today?
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